THE MOUNTAIN OF SUN
AND SNOW
GEOGRAPHY
CLIMATE
WATERS, THERMO-MINERAL SPRINGS AND SPAS
GEOGRAPHY
Among Yugoslav mountains, Kopaonik is unrivalled
by its natural beauty and mineral wealth. Its boundaries are
set by quite distinct natural borders-the deep valleys of
the Ibar, Jošanica, Rasina, Gornja Toplica and Lab rivers.
Kopaonik, the biggest mountain of the central Serbia, spreads
its wide mountain-ridge 82.7km long, its greatest width being
63km, in the direction from the mountainous region over Kosovska
Mitrovica, to the north-west over the series of peaks higher
than 1600m, to the highest part of the massif called Ravni
Kopaonik (Flat Kopaonik) with the peaks: Gobelja (1934m),
Karaman Vucak (1936m), Suvo Rudište (1976m) and Pancicev
vrh (Pancic Peak) (2017m). The northern border of the massif
is separated from the massif of the mountain Željin by
the rivers Jošanicka reka and Koznicka reka. At the western
side, along the whole Kopaonik mountain-ridge, the river Ibar
gorge is placed. The eastern side is bounded by the rivers
Rasina and Toplica valleys. It is very spacious, taking up
a full 2756 square kilometers.
By its geographical location, Kopaonik is predestined to be
a large to Europe. The Ibar, Zapadna Morava and Toplica highways
provide for easy access from the large industrial centers
of Šumadija, Pomoravlje, Toplica, Kosovo and the Skopje
valley (Skopska dolina). Due to good asphalt roads and railways,
the mountain can be reached in five hours' time even starting
from Belgrade, which is about 250km away.
In its highest part, Kopaonik somewhat resembles a flat-roofed
house; its side are almost wall steep and the top so level
that it induced the people to aptly name is Flat Kopaonik
(Ravni Kopaonik). The western sides of the mountain are a
little steeper than the eastern, but also more inaccessible
and bare. Kopaonik is rich in cold and radioactive waters
at higher altitudes and hot ones in the lower parts.
The main features of Kopaonik relief were formed some 70 million
years ago. Great movements of the earth's crust brought about
folding and strong splitting, cleaving the steep sides facing
the bordering valleys. Longitudinal and transversal fissures
dissected to a large degree, the interior parts of the mountain
as well. Deep clefts thus formed created a path for the flow
of andesite-basalt rock, giving birth to the most extensive
eruptive mass in Serbia, and therefore to great mineral wealth-the
most important ores (iron, copper, lead, silver and other
metals) are linked with dacites and andesites. Chromium and
magnesium ore deposits formed in the serpentine-peridotic
rock. Erosion created the wide plateau of Ravni Kopaonik and
the highest peaks from the more resistant rock. Cascading
rivers and snow carved rugged valleys in the areas of softer,
especially serpentine rock, which is dominant in the western
region of the mountain, increasing, therefore, the slope,
inaccessibility and picturesque quality of the terrain.
Kopaonik, where people used to work mines from old times,
was named after its ore resources (kopati-to dig). The volcano
activity and discharge of hot mineral solutions caused changes
on the nearby old rocks because of high temperatures and heavy
pressures. That is how "mining region of Kopaonik"
came to be, with a large numbers of mines from old times.
In Kopaonik region, besides the usual ores: metals iron, lead
and zinc, there are rare metals silver and gold and rare minerals:
volastonite, fluor-spar, asbestos and other.
The process of erosion has created interesting forms of relief,
which attract the attention of mature lovers. Some are made
of granite and look like giant heads of cabbage, weighing
two to three tons, falling apart and splitting as if shedding
their shells. They can be seen in several places along the
Jošanicka Banja-Ravni Kopaanik road. Others are a potpourri
of rocks of unreal beauty, like the Kozje Stene on the slopes
of Kukavica and along the left bank of the Samokovska River.
Third are groups of oddly aligned or scattered blocks of large-grain
granite, resembling giants turned to stone. Such an example
is Markov Kamen (Marko's rock), "the most beautiful geomorphological
natural rarity" on Kopaonik.
Natural monuments: Geomorpholigical monuments-stone granite
sculptures: Lisicja stena, Pajin grob, Suvi vrh, Jankov breg,
Babin grob, Visoki deo, Karaman-Vucak. Geomorphological monuments-traces
of Pleistocene glaciation: Circ Krcmar, Circ Široki do,
Circ Velika Gobelja. Geological monuments: Velika stena, Velika
Sijaca, Jelica, Žljeb, Gvozdac, Oštri Krš.
Hydrological monuments-springs and fountainheads: Fountainhead
Duboka, "Geyser" Gvozdac, Spring Marina voda, Spring
Krcmar, Waterfall Barska reka, Semeteško jezero-lake.
Hydrological monuments-strictly protected water-courses of
the river basins: Samokovska reka, Gobeljska reka, Barska
reka, Brzecka reka, Duboka reka.
CLIMATE
As regards climate, Kopaonik significantly
differs from the neighboring mountains, a fact which can be
seen from the meteorological records for Raška, Kosovska
Mitrovica and Ravni Kopaonik. The first lies at an altitude
of 417m, the second at 526m and the third at 1710m above sea
level. The first two have very similar temperatures, which
is a result of their being located in a valley at a lower
altitude. In Raška the median yearly temperature is 10.7°C,
in Kosovska Mitrovica 10.5°C and on Ravni Kopaonik only
3.7°C. The January temperatures at the three meteorological
stations are -0.4°C for the first, -0.2°C for the
second and -5.2°C for the third. The shifting of the temperature
maximum of Ravni Kopaonik to august indicates it has a sub-alpine
climate. The winter temperatures on this mountain are not
very low as a result of its southern position, flatness and
wide-open terrain, which prevent the piling up of clouds and
cold air and facilitate ventilation. The cold winter air is
heavy and moves through the neighboring valleys and ravines.
Spared a long-lasting cloud cover, Ravni Kopaonik is exposed
to the sun for a longer period of time in winter, making it
warmer than might be expected in Naturally, this is "wintry"
sunshine, so the snow does not melt for five months (its duration
is a average 159 days a year). This is why the ski season
is long and stable here.
With 200 sunny days a year (in Suncana Dolina), this mountain
seems to have been made for a resort with plenty of fresh
air. Thus city dwellers enjoy coming here both in summer and
in winter. In July and August negligible amounts of rainfall
come in short-lasting showers, after which the weather is
fine again. Therefore, during the winter and summer tourist
seasons, which bring in the largest number of visitors, there
is little precipitation. Such a climate has a great effect
on health, a fact that is acknowledged by the experts as well.
WATERS, THERMO-MINERAL
SPRINGS AND SPAS
Kopaonik
would not be so attractive had nature not be quested it with
an abundance of cold, radioactive and thermo-mineral waters.
Walking through the tall grass of the Kopaonik meadows, one
often steps into a brook or pillowy bog, which sprays the
passer-by like a sodden sponge, which had been pressed. When
all these creeks and rivulets come down from Ravni Kopaonik
to the foothills and flow into the Jošanica, Samokovska
or Graševacka rivers, they begin to foam, rumble and
thunder. Only this eternal mountain roar reaches the absolute
quiet of the fir and spruce forests and the seemingly monotonous
pastures. Climbing down to one of these piedmont rivers, one
notices a multitude of cevrntije-giant stone cauldrons with
whirlpools of foaming water. Frequent watermills and an occasional
rolling mill complete with weir, sluice and water wheel, add
to the vividness of the attractive foothills scene.
Quite a few radioactive springs are hidden above all these
streams, rivulets and their sources. Some of them cling to
the very tops of the mountain-Krcmar Voda emerges at 1950
meters above sea level, just below Pancicev Vrh (Pancic's
Peak); Marina Voda at 1700 meters; Pajino Preslo and Kaznovske
Bacije at almost the same altitude. Every one of these springs
has more then 11.5 Mach units of radioactivity. Krcmar Voda,
with 74 Mach units, is the most radioactive spring in Yugoslavia.
Very cold and slightly mineralized, this water is a particular
natural asset of Kopaonik.
Many thermo-mineral springs are found in the foothills of
Kopaonik and at places of marked fissuring-in Jošanicka
Banja, Bogutovacka Banja, Lukovska Banja and Kuršumlijska
Banja, to mention but a few of the nearest thermal springs.
"Following Velika Cesma in Vranjska Banja (92°C),
the second hottest spring in our country is the main spring
in Jošanicka Banja (78.5°C). The springs are curative…"
The water of Jošanicka Banja is used for treatment by
bathing, drinking, gargling and inhaling.
Lukovska Banja, a natural spa well know since the Roman age
lies in the eastern piedmont of Kopoanik, at an altitude of
700m above sea level. It boasts eight springs with alkaline
mineral water, whose temperature varies from 36°C to 56°C.
Mud baths with a temperature of 37.5°C are also used for
therapeutically purposes.
Kuršumlijska Banja, south of Kuršumlija, also in
the eastern piedmont of Kopaonik, is a health spa "with
one spring bordering upon another". There are ten springs
of sulphurous water there, their temperatures being from 38°C
to 57°C. Another produces alkaline mineral water of 30°C.
Bogutovacka Banja lies on the left bank of the Ibar and not
directly below Kopaonik itself. However, it is very close
to the mountain and its got water coming to the surface is
a consequence of tectonic movements in the wider Kopaonik
region. It has three springs of slightly sulphurous and radioactive,
hypothermal water, with a temperature of 24.7°C.
We have mentioned only those thermo-mineral springs and spas
which are situated either in the foothills of Kopaonik or
very close by. Other well-known spas lie within a radius of
50 kilometers: Vrnjacka Banja, Mataruška Banja, Novopazarska
Banja as well as many small thermae that have not yet been
developed.
All the natural splendor of Kopaonik is not yet well-known
or sufficiently exploited. The mountain is noted for its abundance
of strawberries, blackberries, raspberries and bilberries.
The eastern slopes of Rendara and the northern sides of Pancicev
Vrh have miles of bilberry groves, which bring scores of people
out from the nearby villages to pick the fruit in August.
In the last ten years or so, Kriva Reka, the highest village
on Kopaonik (about 1250 meters above sea level) has become
better known due to the cultivation of raspberries and currants.
Because of all these natural characteristics and beauty, the
great Yugoslav scientist, Josif Pancic, was especially fond
of Kopaonik. He climbed it sixteen times-the last time at
the age of 72. Enjoying the splendors of Kopaonik, on several
occasions he expressed his wish to be buried there. His wish
was fulfilled only in 1951 when his remains were transferred
and buried on the highest peak, which was named after this
great man (Pancicev Vrh-2017m above sea level). The founder
of the Serbian Academy of Sciences, a man who explored and
admired this mountain for so long, now lies there forever.
Dr Milorad Vasovic
"Planina sunca i snegova"
Turisticki savez Srbije, 1982.
"Kopaonik" planinarsko-turisticka
karta
Geokarta-Beograd, 1992.
